Tropical wool comparison: Smith Finmeresco, Minnis Fresco, Holland & Sherry Crispaire and Dugdale New-Fine-Worsted

When it comes to "business dressing", wool is often the only good option. Wool has always been associated with warmth. There have been attempts to find the right material for business dressing in summer. One such successful material has been "tropical wool" or "uptwist wool" or "porous wool". lot of mills makes such fabrics these days, the most popular being Minnis Fresco, Smith Finmeresco and Dugdale's New Fine Worsted (NFW), Holland & Sherry Crispaire

A question often arises: Which of these do I choose? My standard answer has often been: All 4 are British, all 4 are good. Go with what you like best. Chose to do a comparison and went with the common weight category in the 3: 280-310 grams, 100% wool.
The shade chosen was a yarn dyed charcoal as it was a common item in all 4 collections.

Feel: The Minnis feels dry and distinct. It is also stiff in comparison to the other 3. The Dugdale feels softer in comparison to the Smith or Crispaire.  

Appearance: From a step back, all 4 appear similar. Up-close, the weave of the Minnis stands out. The Smith does appear a bit dull in comparison.

Thickness: Minnis is the thickest, then the Dugdale and then the Smith, Crispaire.

Airiness: Minnis Fresco feels cooler than the other 3. The Dugdale is the least.

Opacity: The Dugdale is the most opaque. The Minnis the most see-through.

Conclusion: In a lot of ways, the Dugdale feels like a standard plain weave worsted fabric. The Minnis does feel and appear distinct, for what it is. The Smith is a good balance between the two. Crispaire is similar to the Smith. I would still say the same: All 4 are British, all 4 are good. Go with what you like best. If I were to choose one, I would probably go with the Minnis Fresco.


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